CKL 4K KVM Switch Dual Monitor for 2 Computers 2 Monitors (HDMI + DisplayPort)

[My Husband's review]This device has worked a charm. I had a personal setup at home with dual screens, then with COVID WFH requirements, I set up my workstation for my client laptop on the other end of my very wide desk (actually 2 desks joined via a bridge). This was now 4 monitors on my desk, and my personal monitors were much better than my work monitors, and I was not going to buy 2 new monitors for the work station.I never even knew about a KVM switch until I started looking at 49in monitors wistfully, and then these switches appeared as options. Since obtaining this, I have now cleared up a whole half of my desk by eliminating 2 x HP monitors (re-purposed with my daughters for their online schooling) and an additional Logitech keyboard and mouse. This is incredibly convenient to jump between computers without moving.So my setup - 2 x LG widescreen HD monitors, with a Dell D6000 dock and Dell laptop (work) and a Surface Dock with Surface Laptop 2 (personal), and a Logitech K330 wireless keyboard and a M705 mouse, both on a single unifying transmitter. On my Surface Dock, I also have a Sebrent 7-port USB 2.0 hub with switches. Also I had mini DP ports on the Surface dock so I am connecting to the switch using 2 x mini DP to HDMI connectors. The D6000 dock has 1 x HDMI for direct connection but the 2nd connection is DisplayPort so I am using a DP to HDMI adaptor. Note that most of those DP to HDMI adaptors are uni-directional, they would not work from HDMI to DP.A few points that may be helpful:1. It was not very clear from other reviews if I could use other cables than what were supplied. I tried in an effort to be more sensible on cable lengths, but it didn't work out. This may have just been user error, but certainly the "A" cables - the ones with the HDMI + USB + audio and microphone jacks all connected together - you most definitely have to use (a bit more on that below). The "B" cables (for the 2nd monitor) seem like standard HDMIs so maybe you can substitute out. However once I changed out to the OEM cables and got everything working properly, I didn't want to mess about anymore, my cables are all tucked away nicely and I am happy.2. I assumed (didn't spend enough time in the instructions) that on the A-cables, the USB and audio and microphone jacks were only required if connecting up to an older type desktop, that did not have an HDMI or DP connection. So once I got my monitors working, I was so pleased that I didn't spend too much fuss on the keyboard and mouse not functioning on the switch. After a week or so of rocking with 2 keyboards and mice, I decided to delve a bit more into what was going on with the USB ports on the switch, why nothing was functioning. Only after reading the instructions carefully (and also emailing support, who were very helpful!), I realized that I needed to plug in the USB connections as well - the HDMI connection does not take care of everything. Once I did that, the receiver plugged into one of the back USBs (non-powered, I have the hotkey switched off) now works perfectly, so I am now finally using to the full potential - same 2 monitors, 1 keyboard and 1 mouse for both stations.So the be clear on the hookup using 2 docks:1. Connect each laptop to each dock.2. Get the A-cables.3. Take the HDMI only end of the A-cables and plug into the "IN 1A" and "IN 2A" ports on the switch.4. For computer you designate as station #1, take the multiple connection end from the A-cable plugged into "IN 1A". Plug in the HDMI connection into the dock (directly if your dock has that connection, or with an adaptor if it has something different like DP or mini DP).5. Also plug in the USB connector and the audio input jack into the dock. If there is an input for the microphone then you should also plug in that jack, otherwise leave that jack alone.6. Repeat the same for the 2nd computer dock, using the multiple connection end from the cable plugged into "IN 2A".7. Now connect your 2 monitors to from the 2 HDMI outputs on the switch with 2 cables.And that should be all. I have a dual monitor riser on my desk from FITUEYES, which has a center piece and then two extensions that each swivel on a pin to bring the monitors in (so rather than swivel the monitors themselves you actually swivel the risers themselves - better for me as my monitors have minimal movement). No I don't have much hidden below my desk apart from the power connections, most is right below the risers. Under my left riser is my station #1 dock, right is station #2 dock, and below the center is my switch. So I have easy access to all ports on both docks and my switch, and thus I can switch computers using the button on the switch itself. That means I don't need to use the wired remote that was supplied- but I tested it out and it works fine.The switch looks the part, solid built, small enough that it is unobtrusive, and it does not run hot (unlike the Dell D6000 dock - yikes! I had to order a separate cooling fan for that). In hindsight, it seems very simple on how the connections and cables should all be hooked up, for me in the heat of the moment and trying to just ensure it was working and I didn't receive a dud, I made a it of a mess of my first hook up attempt.Again, great product for a dual computer set up to share 2 monitors and 1 keyboard and mouse, don't hesitate to get. At some point again later on (I tend to take things in stages sometimes), I will test out hooking up my other peripherals to the switch (external Jabra 500 speaker / microphone, dedicated webcam) to the switch and see if they work on both computers whenever I jump between them.

Model: 2-monitor DisplayPortProblems:1. Switching computers is like unplugging the monitors, so all of the windows lose their place and move to a single monitor.2. Not initially, but after a couple of weeks, ONE of my computers would only see one of my monitors at 1920x1080 resolution, instead of its full 2560x1600. I moved swapped cables, moved the cables to different ports, etc., and the exact same problem remained (the same monitor was only showing 1920x1080 no matter which port or cable I used - strange).3. Around the same time as the above problem #2, it somehow changed the standard sound on my Windows 10 system to be a loud staticy sound, which would blast every time I switched computers (or plugged in a USB device, etc.). This was just an annoyance and easily fixed by going into System Sounds, but it made me think that this thing just isn't doing the right thing.4. From the beginning, using a wireless mouse had issues where the mouse would get into a disconnect/connect loop until I unplugged and plugged in the USB receiver. I bought a wired mouse, which resolved the issue, but the device states that it supports wireless mice and keyboards.So the idea of this device (the dual DisplayPort one, at least) is good, but the execution is painful. The extra aggravating part is that there was no way for me to have a dry run to test it. I had to hook up all the cables (climbing under my desk, unbundling wires, etc.) and then had to undo all of that once I realized that it simply wasn't doing the job it was designed to do.I'm going to try a similar device from IOGear, since I know they've been around for a while, so I'm hoping theirs works better. I could have gone with HDMI device instead of DisplayPort because there are more of those and the reviews I've read show that people are having more luck with them. HOWEVER, my particular displays only support 1920x1080 resolution over HDMI as opposed to 2560x1600, which is the resolution I prefer (as you might imagine).