Zigbee Dimmer Switch

While it is easy to find a Zigbee on/off switch with no neutral, an actual dimmer is a rarer entity. This one works and seems to work well. I have only had it a few days, however, so I cannot speak to its longevity.The dimmer installed easily with just two wires, load and live. I taped the ends of the other two wires and tucked them out of the way in the back of the electrical box.By the time I got to my computer, the dimmer had already been discovered by Zigbee2MQTT as a Sunricher HK-SL-DIM-US-A. Other reviewers reported that while Zigbee2MQTT found the device, it reported it as Unknown. I am running Zigbee2MQTT version 1.38.0 so I assume a simple update for those users will result in the unit being discovered correctly. The server found settings for State, Brightness, Effect, and Power-on behavior. It also found display values for Power, Voltage, Current, Energy, and Linkquality.From there I was able to define a thing and items in Openhab and, finally, export those to Alexa.I plan on purchasing three more to handle the kitchen, dining room, and family room. For the kitchen, I will see if the push button switch works.Update: Upon finding the PDF version of the wiring instructions, I realized that I had the switch wired wrong. When there is no neutral, the neutral terminal on the dimmer should be connected to the line. Once I did this, it eliminated an annoyance I had with the switch where it would flash when set to 100% brightness. I updated my rating to 5 stars.Update 2: I purchased two more of these dimmers. One was connected with a neutral and worked as expected. The last one replaced a three way switch. The dimmer took one side while the other switch is a momentary switch. A quick press on the momentary switch toggles the light on and off while a long press adjusts the brightness. All three work as routers in the zigbee mesh.

The media could not be loaded. Where do I start with this?I have a newer home. Built in 1990. But I have a simple switch connected to an outlet for a lamp. Very common wiring. Needs a load and line wire and that's it. But the wiring for this outlet is a black and white. For some reason (which can fairly easily be fixed) it's reversed in my outlet. But whatever. I've verified it by ground to white reading 120v and ground to black reading 0. When nothing is plugged in, there's zero current to the switch. Okay. That's the background.Let's focus on this switch.First of all, very small aluminum wiring! Way too small to be 14 awg. Definitely 16 awg. That means no more than 8 amps for this switched outlet else there is a high likelihood for a FIRE behind the switch... you know... inside the wall!Which probably explains where there no UL certification. It's extremely important to use CE and/or UL certified. While this says it's CE certified please research this for yourself. That applies ONLY to EEA (Europe). So this means that whole this device is certified for Europe it is NOT certified for the United States!Moving along.Assuming as I had brought up just now that this switch is intended for EU use, I'm guessing they have different standards for the screws. See... I've typically used a flat head screwdriver to install outlets and switches. Because that's what the faceplates require. Nope. Gotta have a phillips. A small one too! I've never had to install a device which REQUIRED a phillips.Moving passed that...The instructions are IMPOSSIBLE to read! Everything is on a 8.5x10 and is so small that you absolutely must download the PDF. I have 20/20 vision and really struggled to read these because:The instructions were WRONG. At least for me.I figured, black to line, white to load. Nope. But that's what the instructions and even the videos say. But as soon as I went line to black (remember my white and black wires are reversed so house white wires to switch black) and switch RED to (house wiring black) the switch worked. Awesome. But I've tried a CFL and two different LED bulbs. They all flicker enough to give someone with epilepsy a seizure! Can't go brighter than 94% and when you switch the light OFF it's never truly off. It's dimmed and still flickering (for a CFL bulb anyway.) But only with certain dimmer settings. So... that's dangerous. Didn't see a seizure warning in this tiny paper of instructions. I even checked the PDF. Tried different bulbs and everything.Wow... it's also supposed to support SmartThings. But as much as I've tried to get it to detect it.. it couldn't. Alexa didn't have a problem though for some reason.So yeah... this is getting returned before it burns down my house or gives me a headache from the strobing light.

I got a horrible flicker on my dimmable LED bulbs when I turned it up anywhere past half way, and turning off the switch didn’t even completely cut power to my bulbs, they would still glow. Installed on a nicer completely separate dimmable LED fixture and had basically the same issues. I’m sure it’s fine with incandescent but this thing does not like LEDs despite advertising so.

I used this to control the light kit of a ceiling fan that originally only came with a remote. The wall switch that was wired before was done as a switch leg, so the box had no neutral for me to work with. I took a chance in this as it was the only no neutral non wifi smart switch I could find (and get relatively quickly). I'm happy to say it works perfectly.The instructions would very much like to be printed larger and probably in color in order to better be able to read the wiring diagram. For my setup I had two wires (power and load). Those hook up as described. The neutral wire from the switch also needs to be tied into the power line to avoid led flickering.For zigbee it paired easily to zigbee2mqtt though it is reported as being "unsupported". For now that means everything reports/controls correctly except dimming. Physical dimming works but I couldn't get it to work over zigbee. Not a big deal for my use case.The status lights are a bright white and I didn't see a way to control those at all. They're off when the switch is off so it won't be a problem there, but they're almost bright enough to be distracting when the light is on.

Instructions are terrible if your not an electrician but I figured out how to jump the neutral wire back to the switch to get things working. Old wiring with no neutral and I have perfect dimming of LED light without any flicker.